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Home / News /

Une maille à l'endroit, une maille à l'envers / One stitch forward, one stitch backward

Une maille à l'endroit, une maille à l'envers / One stitch forward, one stitch backward

Une maille à l'endroit, une maille à l'envers

Bien loin de l'image de nos grand-mères, tricot à la main, le tricot aujourd'hui est une industrie à part entière. Des machines qui tricotent des fils de toutes les épaisseurs, de toutes les couleurs et de toutes les matières. Des parcs machines de plusieurs millions d'euros, capables de tricoter les fils les plus fin et les plus précieux, avec une précision au micron - à chaque fil son aiguille! Et à chaque aiguille son fil... Comme vous le verrez ci-dessous, il n'est pas facile de s'y retrouver, mais nous vous donnerons quelques éléments techniques pour vous aider à mieux comprendre la complexité d'un travail qui parait souvent si simple....

En cette période de météo capricieuse et de températures en dents de scie, nous avons décidé de vous faire découvrir l'histoire et l'évolution de cette technique qui est au coeur de notre savoir-faire et de nos collections. Parce que l'hiver n'est pas fini, vous enfilerez vos pulls différemment après cette lecture 😉.

 ---------------------------------------------------------

One stitch forward, one stitch backward

 Far from the image of our grandmothers knitting by hand, knitting today is an industry in its own right. Machines that knit yarns of all thicknesses, colors and materials. Multimillion-euro machines capable of knitting the finest and most precious yarns with micron precision - every yarn has its own needle! And every needle has its own thread... As you will see below it is not easy to find your way around, but we will give you some technical elements to help you better understand the complexity of a task that often seems so simple....

In this period of capricious weather and fluctuating temperatures, we have decided to share with you the history and evolution of this technique at the heart of our expertise and our collections. And because winter is not over yet, you’re sure to wear your sweaters differently after reading this 😉.

 

Non, le tricot n'est pas qu'une affaire de femmes!

 Même s’il semble très difficile de dresser une chronologie de la technique du tricot, la trouvaille la plus ancienne de tricot au sens propre consiste en fragments de chaussettes en coton finement décorées trouvées en Égypte datant de la fin du 3ème siècle. La technique s’est ensuite répandue dans le monde arabe dès le 8ème siècle, et s’est introduite en Europe par les Croisades et la conquête arabe de la péninsule Ibérique.

D'Espagne, le tricot remonte en Angleterre et en Écosse, où, suivant la légende, il est enseigné aux natifs des Shetland par des matelots espagnols. Il fait l'objet d'un commerce dès le début du 15ème siècle et reste l'apanage des hommes jusqu'au développement de son industrialisation, et l'apparition des premiers métiers à tricoter au milieu du 19eme siècle.

Le tricot manuel reste aujourd'hui un passe-temps majoritairement féminin, mais qui, grâce à son retour à la mode en ces temps écologiques et responsables, voit de plus en plus d'hommes (célébres ou moins), s'y adonner en public. Les "Hombres Tejedores" par exemple, un mouvement né au Chili mais qui fait des émules dans plusieurs pays d'Amérique du Sud, regroupe des hommes qui se retrouvent pour tricoter en public, pour dénoncer les préjugés et prôner une société inclusive.

 -------------------------------------

 No, knitting is not just woman's business!

 Although it seems very difficult to establish a chronology for the technique of knitting, the oldest knitting find in the true sense consists of fragments of finely decorated cotton socks found in Egypt dating from the end of the third century. The technique then spread to the Arab world from the 8^th century onwards, and was introduced to Europe through the Crusades and the Arab conquest of the Iberian Peninsula.

From Spain, knitting made its way to England and Scotland, where, according to legend, it was taught to the inhabitants of Shetland by Spanish sailors. It was traded from the beginning of the 15^th century and remained the exclusive preserve of men until its industrialization and the appearance of the first knitting machines in the mid-19^th century.

Today, hand knitting remains a predominantly female pastime, but thanks to its return to fashion in these ecological and responsible times, more and more men (famous or not) are taking part in it in public. The "Hombres Tejedores", for example, a movement born in Chile but which has been emulated in several South American countries, unites men who meet to knit in public to denounce prejudice and advocate an inclusive society.

Il y a maille et maille

 En tant que consommateur, l’intérêt de la maille se situe principalement dans son confort. Par opposition au tissu, elle est plus élastique, et ne nécessite pas l'utilisation de stretch. Elle s'adapte à la morphologie de chacun et épouse parfaitement les lignes du corps.

Techniquement, plus le fil est fin plus l'aiguille doit être fine. A chaque fil son aiguille 😉. Le nombre d'aiguilles au cm2 s'appelle la jauge (gauge en anglais), qui donne l'indication de la finesse d'un tricot: plus le numéro de la jauge est élevé, plus les mailles sont fines.

Et évidemment, plus les mailles sont fines, plus le tricotage est lent et plus on a besoin de matière: c'est ce qu'on appelle la "smacchinatura lenta" (tricotage lent), un signe de densité et de qualité, qui rend le tricot extrêmement souple et élastique.

Par exemple Jauge 3: tricot avec de très grosses mailles tricotées avec du fil épais, qui ressemble à ce qui est tricoté à la main. Jauge 16: Jauge fine. Jauge 40: maille ultra fine à l'aspect visuel proche du tissu.

 De manière générale, les tricots KA/NOA sont en jauge 18, qui leur confèrent une finesse exceptionnelle, donnée à la fois par la qualité remarquable du fil et le nombre des aiguilles. Vous trouverez l'indication de la jauge ("gauge") dans la description de chaque produit.

 --------------------------------------

There are knits and knits

 As a consumer, the interest of knitwear lies mainly in its comfort. It is more elastic as opposed to fabric and does not require the use of stretch. It adapts to the morphology of each person and follows the lines of the body perfectly.

Technically, the finer the thread, the finer the needle. To each thread its needle 😉. The number of needles per cm^2 is called the gauge, which gives an indication of the fineness of a knitted fabric: the higher the gauge number, the finer the stitches.

And of course, the finer the stitches, the slower the knitting and the more material is needed: this is called smacchinatura lenta (slow knitting), a sign of density and quality, which makes the knitted fabric extremely soft and elastic.

For example, 3-gauge knitwear with very large stitches knitted with thick yarn, which resembles hand-knitting. 16-gauge: fine gauge. 40-gauge: ultra fine knitwear with a visual appearance close to fabric.

In general, KA/NOA knits are made in 18-gauge, which endows them with exceptional fineness, given both the remarkable quality of the yarn and the number of needles. You will find the gauge in the description of each product.

 

Il y a fil et fil

Le titrage indique la grosseur d’un fil, il vous donne donc le rapport entre le poids et la longueur du fil. Plus on a de fil au kilo, plus le fil sera fin donc plus le titrage sera élevé.

Donc par exemple, vous pourrez retrouver un chiffre tel que x/60 (comme pour les tricots en wish wool de Loro Piana) qui voudra dire que vous avez 60000 mètres de fil au kilo. Ou par exemple x/48 (comme pour les tricots en cashwool), qui voudra dire que vous avez 48000 mètres de fil au kilo.

Et le tout premier chiffre parle du nombre de fois que le fil est retordu: dans un tricot 2/60, il y a un fil de deux brins, donc 30000 mètres de fil (double) au kilo, filé en un seul brin.

Cette grosseur de fil se rapporte toujours à la jauge vue plus haut: plus le fil est épais, plus la jauge est basse:

Pull Joel: Wish wool de Loro Piana 2/60 , gauge 18

Pull Florent en Cashwool 2/48 gauge 18

Pull Arvel 2/12 gauge 5

 Peut-on dès lors affirmer qu'une laine plus fine est une laine de meilleure qualité ? Certes, elle sera plus douce et plus exclusive, mais pas nécessairement de meilleure qualité, car elle dépend du type de matière première et du processus de fabrication. Nos fils, qu'ils soient de Loro Piana (pour la wish wool), de Cariaggi (pour le cashmere), ou de Zegna Baruffa (pour le cashwool), sont réputés pour être les meilleurs, déterminé par des éléments tels que la race de l'animal d'origine, les traitements chimiques subis par la toison, le type de traitement et l'ondulation et la longueur des fibres d'origine.

Autant de critères qui justifient la qualité et le prix de la matière première, de la façon et de la production, pour garantir à nos clients des produits d'exception.

---------------------------

 There is yarn and yarn

 Yarn count indicates the thickness of a yarn, so it gives you the ratio between the weight and the length of the yarn. The more yarn per kilo, the finer the yarn will be and therefore the higher the grade.

So, for example, one might find a number such as x/60 (as in Loro Piana's wish wool) which would mean that one has 60,000 meters of yarn per kilo. Or for example x/48 (as in cashwool knitwear), which means one has 48,000 meters of yarn per kilo.

And the very first number refers to the number of times the yarn is twisted: in a 2/60 knit, there is one yarn of two strands, meaning 30,000 meters of (double) yarn per kilo, spun into one strand.

This yarn size always refers to the gauge as described: the thicker the yarn, the lower the gauge:

Joel jumper: Wish wool by Loro Piana 2/60, 18-gauge

Florent jumper in Cashwool 2/48, 16-gauge

Arvel jumper 2/12, 5-gauge

Is it true that a finer wool is a better-quality wool? It will undoubtedly be softer and more exclusive, but not necessarily of better quality, because it depends on the type of raw material and the manufacturing process. Our yarns, whether from Loro Piana (for wish wool), Cariaggi (for cashmere), or Zegna Baruffa (for cashwool), are reputed to be the best, determined by elements such as the breed of the animal of origin, the chemical treatments undergone by the fleece, the type of treatment and the crimp and length of the original fibers.

All these criteria justify the quality and price of the raw material, the process and the production, guaranteeing our customers exceptional products.

 

JOEL jumper with buttonless opening. 

FAUST interlock stitching knitted full zip jumper in 160's yarn by Loro Piana. 18-gauge.

CHF 658

 

YANNIS knitted cardigan in wish wool 2/60 by Loro Piana.

18-gauge. Mother-of-pearl buttons.

Exists in dark blue or brown with leather.

CHF 408

FLORENT knitted polo in cashwool, the only extrafine merino wool yarn 100% Made in Italy. 2/48, 18-gauge.

CHF 358

 

AMIAS knitted cycling collar jumper in wish wool by Loro Piana. 14-gauge. Tone on tone jacquard sleeve with KA/NOA logo

CHF 388

CANUT knitted zipped polo.100% Artic cotton knitted on 18-gauge.

CHF 338

 

Le retour des costumes

Si le télétravail touche à sa fin ou si les cérémonies reprennent, le costume fait son grand retour. Preuve en est les podiums des défilés, et les recherches google où le terme de "tailoring" a bondi de 600%, pour se retrouver à des niveaux d'avant pandémie. La tendance est à une décontraction des tenues formelles, ou un raffinement des tenues décontractées, pour un résultat smart casual élégant mais confortable, où la veste et le pantalon peuvent se porter séparément, pour une tenue plus relax.

Le costume bien ajusté devient l'élément central et intemporel de tout dressing masculin. Ce n'est pas de la mode, c'est une question de bon sens.

La collection KA/NOA ne fait pas exception à la règle, et nous avons travaillé sur des modèles de costumes chic ou casual, dépareillés, ou assortis: Nous restons à votre écoute en boutique pour vous conseiller au mieux selon vos besoins, et vous présenter les combinaisons possibles.

 Et si vous ne trouvez pas votre bonheur, notre service sur-mesure vous permettra de choisir votre tissu et créer votre costume personnel: A occasion unique, costume unique !

-----------------------

 The return of the suit

 With remote working coming to an end and ceremonies resuming, the suit is making a comeback. The proof is on the catwalks and in the Google searches where the term "tailoring" has jumped 600% to pre-pandemic levels. The trend is towards deformalization of formal wear, or refinement of casual wear, for a smart casual result, elegant yet comfortable, where the jacket and trousers can be worn separately, for a more relaxed outfit.

A well-tailored suit thus becomes the central and timeless element of any man's wardrobe. It's not fashion, it's common sense.

The KA/NOA collection is no exception to the rule. Having worked on chic or casual suit models, mismatched or matched, we are at your disposal in the boutique to advise you according to your needs, and to show you all possible combinations.

And if you don't find what you're looking for, our made-to-measure service will allow you to choose your fabric and create your own personal suit: a unique occasion, a unique suit!

Suit in high twill wool from Tallia di Delfino.

Italian cut and style for the 3-button blazer, with horn buttons and double vent at rear. Chino-style pants with invisible hem.

CONRAD shirt with KA/NOA inside collar, to remain elegant without a tie. Perfect suit for travel or business.

Available exclusively in our boutiques. Price of the suit: CHF 1556

How about a train ride?

 As Jack London said, "It's not the destination that counts, it's the journey". From the comfort of the cabin to the beauty of the landscapes you travel through, train travel can offer an unforgettable travel experience. Take the time to travel responsibly and in a social way combining luxury and adventure... Discover the world’s most beautiful trains – sure to make us want to pack our bags instantly!

ROVOS RAIL (South Africa) 

The Rovos Rail is one of the most luxurious ways to experience South Africa. This lavish rail service combines safari and retro ambience. Enjoy the comfort of vintage armchairs in paneled lounges, or enjoy the wind on the balconies, watching the local wildlife go by. The classic Pretoria to Cape Town track winds its way gently through buzzing grasslands, vineyards carved into the landscape and towering mountains.

ALASKA RAILROAD 

Completed in 1923, the iconic Alaska Railroad connects many of Alaska's most popular destinations from mid-May to mid-September: Anchorage, Talkeetna, Denali National Park, Fairbanks, Girdwood, Seward, Whittier and the Spencer Glacier Whistle Stop.

WEST HIGHLAND LINE (Scotland)

Sweeping across the rugged Scottish highlands, the West Highland Line takes its travelers across desolate, wind-battered moorland, along steep hills, placid lochs and the towering heights of Ben Nevis. Although the whole line is a feast for the eyes, the view from Glenfinnan Viaduct over the serene depths of Loch Shiel is undoubtedly the highlight of the ride. Known by many as the most scenic rail route in the world !

 For a more luxurious alternative, the Royal Scotsman offers magical tours of the Highlands.

 

THE TREN A LA NUBES (Argentina) 

This is one of the highest railways in the world, crossing the breathtaking mountains of the Andes between magnificent landscapes. The train leaves from the city of Salta and crosses the Lerma valley to enter the Ravine del Toro. A 217 km round trip lasting almost 15 hours.

GLACIER EXPRESS (Switzerland) 

The Glacier Express is a direct train connecting the railway stations of the two major mountain resorts of Zermatt and St Moritz via Andermatt in the Central Swiss Alps. It is known as the slowest express train in the world 😊 and provides a one-seat ride for an eight-hours-long end-to-end 291 km journey.

THE ORIENT EXPRESS 

On 4 October 1883, the most luxurious train in the world left the Gare de l’Est. It traveled from Paris to Constantinople in less than 76 hours, marking the success of an incredible technological challenge. A veritable “rolling palace hotel”, the Orient-Express surrounded travelers with the splendor of its decor: precious wood marquetry, glass panels, fabrics, refined leather along with pillows and bedding that guaranteed a good night’s rest. Today, aboard seven fully restored historic cars, the Orient Express has brought its legend to life. Each ride evokes all the wonder of the past. Nothing has changed.

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Une maille à l'endroit, une maille à l'envers / One stitch forward, on